Morabeza: 8 Days in Cape Verde
This archipelago in the Atlantic is in permanent contention for our favorite country on earth.
It takes a special place to get us off the bikes. Cape Verde is that place. While this is not a scooting trip, there is more than enough adventure and discovery, from climbing the volcano on the island of Fogo to sampling the local caipirinhas. We will explore several islands, immersing ourselves in the local culture and natural beauty of this incredible volcanic island chain.
Itinerary
Day 1Â
On our first day in Praia, the capital of Cape Verde and the largest city in the archipelago, we will head to the Ciudad Velha (the old city), hiking through a lush valley of palms, banana plantations and local rum distilleries to get there. After getting caught up on Cape Verdean history, we will have lunch in Praia on the beach before a relaxing afternoon of leisurely wandering. At night, we will catch some live music, possibly some morna, Cape Verde’s national brand of folk music.
Day 2
After our day in Praia we will head over to the island of Fogo, home to an active volcano and the highest peak in West Africa. This is where our itinerary can be a bit difficult to pin down (please see our philosophy on itineraries). Depending on scheduling, we will either take a ferry or a short flight. Once on Fogo, we will explore São Filipe, the hilly capital city of basalt cobblestone streets and colorful colonial architecture.Â
Climbing the Highest Point in West Africa
Day 3
We will head out of São Felipe and loop around the island, visiting several sites as we learn about the local culture and history and gradually make our way to the center of the caldera. We will arrive at our lodging — a local guesthouse made out of hardened lava from the volcano — in the afternoon, with time to relax before the following day’s hike.Â
Day 4
We have a big day in front of us. It will start before sunrise as we walk briskly across the caldera, making our way to the base of Pico de Fogo. As the sun begins to rise over the caldera, we will find ourselves in and out of clouds while a mind-bending scene begins to take shape all around us. We typically reach the summit just before midday and arrive back at the lodge for a nourishing late afternoon lunch and perhaps a shot of grogue or two to celebrate the day’s accomplishments.Â
Hiking Pico de Fogo
Summiting Pico de Fogo is challenging to say the least. There are steep passages on both the ascent and descent, loose rock, and about one kilometer of vertical climb. It is invariably a highlight for those that venture to the summit, but it is not for everyone and it is certainly not a required activity. You can always relax in the lodge and drink the local wine grown from the island’s rich soil, or you can opt to climb Fogo’s smaller peak, which is much more manageable.
Spontaneous Moments
We do not believe in choreographed, scripted experiences. Whether we are scooting or trekking, we want to explore a place on its own terms.Â
Finding a local streetside barbecue and joining in on an improvised jam session amongst residents of the neighborhood (Praia, Santiago).
Returning to Santiago
Day 5
We will return to São Felipe, but this time we will stay down near the port at a locally run guesthouse, where we will catch some live music as the sun sets over the island of Brava just in front of us. During the day, you will have time to wander the streets of São Felipe (a great place to buy the locally produced coffee and wine!) or to continue relaxing after summiting the highest peak in West Africa.Â
Day 6
We will hop on the ferry back to Santiago. Once there, we will take the road north towards Tarrafal. Along the way, we will have the chance to explore an ocean cave, eat some delicious Cape Verdean cuisine, and hike in the Serra Malagueta Natural Park. We will overnight in a local guesthouse before continuing on to Tarrafal.Â
Final Days
Day 7
Tarrafal is one of those rare chilled out beach towns with a picturesque horseshoe bay, soft sand, a vibrant local community and practically zero tourists. Most foreign holidaymakers opt for all-inclusive resorts elsewhere in Cape Verde. Here, we will mostly share the beach with locals. There will be plenty of activities on offer, from snorkeling to surfing, but you may just want to relax on the beach with a good book. And if you haven’t yet tried a caipirinha yet, this is the place to do it!
Day 8
After exploring Tarrafal and the northern corner of Santiago, we will head back to Praia, cruising down the coast and stopping at local bars and eateries along the way. Call it our farewell tour. By this time we will already be feeling the longing and nostalgia – saudade, if you want to use the Portuguese – for Cape Verde. Time to plan the next trip over a few caipirinhas once we are back in Praia!
What to Expect
The short version: there will be a few windy days, but you may consider relocating to Cape Verde based on the weather alone. Expect lots of sun and daily highs of around 29°C (84 °F). The mornings and evenings can be cooler, however, and it’s best to bring some trousers and a sweater or jacket.
A hat, sunscreen and a bathing suit are all good ideas, along with a good pair of hiking boots. Once you have booked a spot on the trip, we can advise if there are any other recommended items depending on your individual needs.  Â
The official language of Cape Verde is Portuguese, but the local Creole is more widely spoken. In this case, Creole is a mix of different West African languages, Portuguese and even some other European languages. English speakers are not difficult to find, though. Cape Verde has a large expat population, many of whom have migrated to English-speaking countries and since returned. We will also have different English speaking guides with us throughout the trip.  Â
Wherever possible, we will stay at hotels and guesthouses that introduce us to the local community. We will always choose a family run place over a chain hotel. Generally, we will be staying in comfortable accommodation, with a rustic detour for a night when we are staying next to Pico de Fogo. There are no bush camps on this trip and there is no need to bring towels or linens, etc.
Let’s get this out of the way: if you are vegan or vegetarian this trip is certainly possible. You will not go hungry and you will still have a great time. But we have to admit that connaiseurs of pork and/or seafood are particularly spoiled in Cape Verde. From fresh grilled octopus on Fogo to a pulled pork sandwich on the side of the road in the middle of the Santiago countryside, Cape Verdeans have figured out these two food groups. We will of course also sample Cape Verde’s national dish, Cachupa, a slow-cooked stew of corn, beans, cassava, sweet potato, fish or beef and sausage, and many other local specialties.
The trip price includes breakfast every day and several lunches and dinners (when it is included as part of our accommodation plan). The trip price does not include restaurant meals and drinks.Â
Praia is served by multiple international airlines, but your best bet is most likely TAP Portugal or Royal Air Maroc, depending on where you are coming from. The trip will begin and end on Saturday. Plan to arrive on the Friday before the trip begins. You can plan your return flight for as early as Saturday evening at the end of the trip. Â
If you are expecting a by-the-minute schedule that will be respected to the letter, this is not the trip for you. While Cape Verde is more developed and organized than many of the other places we visit in West Africa, it is still a great place for honing your patience and learning how to improvise. Ferry schedules and other travel logistics can change without warning. It’s important to keep an open mind and be ready for anything. If you have the right attitude, you will learn to love the different challenges that may arise.
Available Dates
Cost and Booking Information
The trip cost is €1750. This cost is based on double occupancy lodging. For a single room, there is an additional €75 supplement. To secure your spot on the trip, we take a non-refundable deposit of €250. If you are unable to make it on the trip, you can use this deposit towards a future trip at a later date.
As stated above, the trip cost includes all lodging, transport, and breakfasts during the trip. It does not include airfare, visas, optional activities, drinks, restaurant meals and other food outside of the group meal.
If a trip has open spots, we will accept bookings up until departure. For trips that are full, we expect trip payment no later than two months before the trip starts. Please see our page on trip policies and cancellations.