A quarter of a million people call Ziguinchor home. You’d hardly know it wandering around in the late afternoon, when much of the city is taking a siesta.

But in the morning, as mini-buses and sept-places dodge jakarta motorbikes (the same scooters we use on our trips), children weave in and out of traffic on their way to school, and traders and merchants transform their idle spaces into explosions of color, Ziguinchor suddenly seems like it could go toe to toe with any West African urban center.

The capital of Senegal’s southern province is one of those towns that – like Bissau just to the south – is somehow lively and relaxed at the same time.

Historically neglected by Senegal’s Dakar-based government, Ziguinchor and the wider Casamance region offer a chance to visit what feels like a different country. Religious and cultural diversity, and the prominence of different ethnic groups, such as the Diola (Jola), Bainuk and Fula, are a big reason for this. Equally important are the region’s repeated attempts at independence.

What to See and Do in Ziguinchor

• Enjoy the river. Ziguinchor would not be the same without the Casamance River running through it. Enjoying a sundowner on the patio of Le Perroquet or on the stilted outdoor dining platform of the more upscale Kandiandoumagne is a great way to spend the early evening. From either hotel, you can arrange pirogue excursions to fish, spot dolphins or bird-watch. Of course, you can also do those activities directly from the shore. For a more local riverside experience, check out the bar “Un Pied dans l’eau” or Zig Terrace east of the bridge, and Erobon bar, which is west of Kandiandoumagne.
• Check out the markets. There is a bit of a market area in the streets perpendicular to the Rue du Commerce near the port area. But if you want the full market experience, head to Marche Saint-Maurice, which is located further south from the river. More manageable than the markets in larger cities, the St. Maur market is still plenty lively.
• The Cathedral of Saint Anthony of Padua. This cathedral is more than a century old. It continues to be a place of Catholic worship and serves as a reflection of the religious diversity that can be found in the Casamance.

Eating and Drinking

If you enjoy fresh fish and seafood, you’ve found the right town. Lotte (monkfish), barracuda, oysters and shrimp are featured on nearly every menu.

The restaurants at Le Perroquet and Kandiandoumagne are both excellent. Between the two, Le Perroquet is more affordable, with a succinct menu that has few vegetarian options. The shrimp, barracuda, chicken and lotte dishes are reliably delicious. Kandiandoumagne has a more elaborate (and more expensive) menu, with vegetarian options and plenty of pasta dishes in addition to those that feature meat or fish with a side dish.

In addition to the hotel restaurants, we recommend checking out La Douma and Zig Terrace for some affordable local specialties.

Culture and Nightlife

Ziguinchor is not quite Dakar when it comes to cultural activities, but the city packs a punch for its size. There are festivals and events throughout the year. A good way to find out about what’s on is to check the bulletin board at Le Perroquet.

For local and international artists, of both the visual and musical variety, the Alliance Française is a good bet.

There are several nightclubs that draw a crowd on the weekends. Since Bonbolon closed down, Le Rubis has taken over as the most popular space for the younger crowd. Zigarena, on the eastern edge of town, occasionally has live music, with Wednesday nights often hosting the main event. Another popular spot is CIA.

Of course, there are plenty of smaller, local bars that have an outdoor terrace, a pair of speakers and moderately cold beer.

Getting Around

Downtown Ziguinchor is compact and walkable. Walking from Kandiandoumagne or Le Perroquet to the port, for example, will take you no more than 10 minutes. If you are in a hurry, a taxi will cost no more than 500 CFA within the central area of the city. Longer rides can cost 1000 CFA.

A ride out to the airport, which is very close to the city, may cost slightly more.

Where to Stay in Ziguinchor

We’ve already mentioned our two top spots. We have been going to Le Perroquet for years. It is our first choice when it comes to accommodation in Ziguinchor. We won’t go into too much detail here. We’ve already written an entire article about Le Perroquet. It is affordable (rooms between 18000 – 25000 CFA/night), the location is perfect, and the sandy riverside terrace is unmatched.

Kandiandoumagne is more expensive (the cheapest room is 35000 CFA), but you will find considerably more amenities, including a swimming pool. Room prices quickly go up if you want a river view, and the atmosphere can be a bit uptight when compared to the more relaxed Le Perroquet.

If both of these hotels are full, Le Flamboyant is a good alternative. It is not on the river, but the rooms are well-appointed and the staff will look after you. They also have a swimming pool.

Getting There

Have a look at our article on getting to and from the Casamance. That is a good starting point, and it covers all of the road networks that lead into and out of the Casamance, in addition to air and boat travel.

It’s worth noting that the airport has been under renovation since the fall of 2022. As of this writing (March 2023), the work is ongoing and there is not a specific date that has been given for its reopening.

If you are coming from or going to Dakar, our preferred mode of transport is the overnight ferry. Here is everything you need to know about it.

And if you are using Ziguinchor as a jumping off point to Guinea-Bissau, it is only 20 kilometers from the border, the visa is a piece of cake, and you can get all the way to Bissau for less than 10,000 CFA on public transport.