Twenty-some kilometers inland from the Atlantic Ocean, there is a small town in Guinea-Bissau with a population of roughly 10,000 people. The town is called Cacheu, and it was one of the first colonial settlements in sub-saharan Africa.

It served as a port for the Portuguese. The principal export was human beings, destined for the New World or for Cape Verde, where the Portuguese had set up a colony on a previously uninhabited archipelago.

Nowadays it is a sleepy town with few accommodation options and not much going on. But it is an easy day trip from Bissau. It can also be used as a transit point to São Domingos via the mangroves.

The nearby national park can also be explored with a guide (see below for guide contact info). The main attraction here is historical, with both the slavery museum and the restored fort on the water. The riverside itself is also worth exploring. It offers yet another chance to witness the incredible tide changes of Guinea-Bissau.

Getting to Cacheu

Getting to Cacheu by road is easy enough. You simply need to take the turnoff from Bula towards Canchungo. The road is in great shape and the scenery is excellent. You will see plenty of cashew and fromagier trees en route.

Once you get to Cacheu, the main road leads straight to the port. It dead ends at the water itself, and you will see a small pier and most likely a few boats around. We arrived in the afternoon when most of the town was taking a siesta. But the port still had some activity.

What to See and Do in Cacheu

The fort is just west of the port area along the riverside road. The slavery museum is just before the fort on the left. You may have to ask around to find the caretaker, but people are more than willing to help you out.

The interior of the fort is off limits unless you ask for permission from the caretaker at the slavery museum. From there, you can get a guided tour. The fort, built in the 16th century, is quite small, but it is interesting for its bizarre statues, some of which are decapitated or split in two at the torso.

The fort and museum are important sites of remembrance for the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Several events and memorials have been held in Cacheu to reflect on the grim history of Portugal’s first settlement in sub-Saharan Africa.

The museum in particular gives you a sense of the multi-generational destruction to the social and cultural fabric of so many areas of West Africa.

Where to Stay in Cacheu

Just across the street from the slave trade museum (Memorial da Escravatura e do Tráfico Negreiro de Cacheu if you look on Google Maps), there is a new hotel called CARRENE TOURS VILLAGE HOTEL that was completed in 2023. It is one of the only places to stay in town. You won’t see it on the map, but you can contact Rene at +245 966 670 639 (also his whatsapp) for info and reservations.

The hotel has an incredible riverside view, a swimming pool, and well-appointed bungalows. There is also a restaurant and bar.

Taking a Boat Through the Mangroves

After visiting the slavery museum and the fort, you can return by road back to Canchungo, and then continue south towards Bissau or north towards São Domingos. You could also try your hand at a boat trip through the mangroves. The Cacheu River Mangroves Natural Park is certainly worth visiting if you have the chance.

You can organize a local canoe, or you can hire the official park boat at a negotiable rate. We paid 180,000 CFA for 6 passengers and 6 motorbikes from Cacheu all the way to São Domingos, a journey that took about 2 hours.

We saw plenty of birdlife and even a caiman lounging on the bank of the river. If you have a smaller group (meaning less weight), you will surely be able to negotiate a lower price. In our case, we had to put the motorbikes on as we were on our two week tour from Dakar to Guinea-Bissau. The other passengers on the boat included the driver as well as a guide for the park.

To organize such a boat trip, you can contact the park directly at +245 955 944 744 or just ask around town for the park headquarters and someone can direct you.

UPDATE 2023: When we were last in Cacheu the Park’s boat had broken down. But we met Julio, who had a covered pirogue. We took the boat to São Domingos and the trip was approximately two hours. The cost for the entire boat rental was 100,000 CFA. Depending on how many people you have with you, you may be able to negotiate the price lower. Julio’s contact is +245 955 262 423 (that is his whatsapp as well).

Whether you are passing through Cacheu or taking a day trip from Bissau, it is a town that is worth exploring, both for its history and its relaxed atmosphere.