Senegal’s Petite-Côte (little coast) runs from just south of Dakar down to the Sine-Saloum. While most people gravitate to the beachside town of Saly, if you want something a bit more laid back the small town of Toubab Dialaw is your spot.

It is a short drive from the airport and it has this immaculate beach that is often deserted, a welcome change of pace if you have spent any time on the beach in Saly.

Toubab Dialaw is not as developed as Saly and Sonome, but there are still places to eat and drink and there are a few good options for lodging. We like to stay at Sobo Bade, which is as much an art gallery as it is a hotel. Founded by the Haitian artist Gérard Chenet, the hotel features his sculptures and mixed media installations. Every room is unique and some have a panoramic view of the beach framed by large rock formations.

Sobo Bada has a restaurant on site, but if you are looking to venture out, just take the stairs down to the beach and head over to Le K’méléon, where you can feast on local specialties like thiof braisé (a whole barbecued fish) and enjoy a cocktail or a cold Gazelle beer. There are other little food shacks if you make your way further up the beach. Most feature local food and are fairly inexpensive (think 3-4000 CFA for a main dish).

The main draw in Toubab Dialaw is the untouched beach that is remarkably clean despite the proximity to Dakar. It’s great for a swim or a long walk. And most importantly, you won’t find the hordes of old French tourists and expats that you come across further south. If you start to get restless there are also several informal spots on the beach where you can partake in drumming and dance classes.

If you are serious about dance, the École des Sables, founded by the Senegalese choreographer Germaine Acogny, is an internationally renowned arts center. You may also be able to catch performances there depending on their schedule.

Getting There and Away

Toubab Dialaw is roughly 60 kilometers south of Dakar and 20-some kilometers north of Saly. It is a very short drive to Senegal’s Blaise Diagne International Airport.

A taxi from the airport should be between 5 and 10,000 CFA depending on your negotiating skills. If you are coming from Dakar, it will likely be at least 20,000 CFA. There are shared taxis that come through Toubab Dialaw, but it is not a typical stop for minibuses or regular buses. While Saly has a busy carrefour situated on the Mbour highway, Toubab Dialaw is a bit out of the way.

We think the extra effort is worth it. There are not many places in Senegal like it. If you are interested in a clean beach with no hassle that also has access to traditional and contemporary art, this is your spot. We like it so much that we often stop here at the end of our tours.

Do you have a chilled out spot on the Petite-Côte that you would like to tell us about? Let us know in the comments below.