Situated south of Dakar and north of the Gambia, the Sine Saloum delta is 24,000 square kilometers of villages, water ways and salt flats dotted with baobabs and palm trees. Two rival Serer kingdoms, that of Sine and Saloum, left their mark here, and in addition to the diverse flora and fauna, the region is also known for its historical and cultural importance.

While it’s possible to organize a tour to the area, or travel with public transport, the best way to explore the region is with your own wheels. The delta is one of the regions we explore on our scooter trips, and in this post, we will share a few of our favorite spots.

From the Petite-Côte to the Delta

The coastline of Senegal north of the Gambia is divided into the Grande-Côte and the Petite-Côte. Dakar sits between the two stretches of coastline, as it juts out into the Atlantic on a narrow spit of land. South of Dakar is the Petite-Côte, which borders the Sine-Saloum delta. There are many ways to explore the delta, but you can’t go wrong by starting a trip on the Petite-Côte and then traveling inland.

On our last trip, we first stopped in Joal-Fadiouth. Joal is a small village with the ocean on one side and a lagoon on the other. Fadiouth is an island in the lagoon that’s built on clam shells, and it is easily accessible via a pedestrian bridge. There are no cars on the island, and tourists are required to pay a small entry fee for a guided tour. Read all about Joal-Fadiouth here.

We recommend having lunch at la Taverne du Pêcheur. Expect lots of fresh seafood, cold beer and a comfortable seat next to the water. Afterwards, you can wander across to Fadiouth and explore the unique history of the dual Muslim and Christian communities on this tiny island.

Heading inland 

After we stopped in Joal, we traveled south and east to Dangane, where we coordinated with le Bazouk du Saloum to get picked up by one of their boats. Arriving at le Bazouk, we immediately set up shop on the jetty with some cold drinks. We later ate delicious monkfish brochettes with couscous before retiring to our comfortable, solar powered rooms. Half-board was very reasonably priced at 21000 CFA per person.

While we only stayed one night, we will definitely be back. In addition to the island itself, the boat trip there and back provides a window into the unique mangrove environment. Expect to see plenty of birdlife!

South towards the Gambia

Before heading further south into the delta, you can make another pit stop at Simal Ecolodge, a great place to chill out for a day or two. The first thing you will notice is the pool, which appears to be seamlessly integrated into the natural surroundings. The traditional bungalows also blend in quite well as does the full service bar and restaurant. If you get tired of the pool, you can take out a kayak on the river, which is just steps away.

After Simal, you can head towards Foundiougne, where you will need to cross the river on the ferry or on a traditional pirogue (if you are traveling on foot or by bike). The crossing is inexpensive – a few thousand cfa – and it only takes ten minutes or so. Once you make it to the other side, it’s a short drive down to Toubakouta, where there are plenty of lodging options right on the water. We prefer Keur Saloum, in part because it offers views like this:

It also doesn’t hurt that they have this bar next to this pool:

While Keur Saloum is a bit more expensive than the other accommodation options mentioned in this post, the hotel offers an extensive list of activities, including kayaking, fishing, birdwatching and even 4×4 tours that go further into the delta.

Toubakouta is not far from the Gambian border, and if you are heading that way, expect a short drive on immaculate tarmac. Before you get to the border, you can stop by the Fathala Wildlife Reserve, a privately run park that hosts a considerable amount of big game for a region that is no longer known for it.

There are of course plenty of other corners to explore in the Sine-Saloum Delta. If you’ve been to the area, please share your favorite spots or any bits of advice in the comments.