I woke up in Ziguinchor yesterday morning and whilst I was enjoying breakfast at Le Perroquet, a friend asked me if I’d like to see a West African Manatee in the wild. I’d heard a bit about them and I knew that they were somehow related to the Dugong.
Other than knowing I’d like to see one, I didn’t know much else about them. Anyway, I did a bit of research online only to discover that hardly anyone has ever done proper studies on these rare aquatic beasts so there is not a great deal of information available.
My friend however assured me that if I went to Pointe Saint-Georges on the Casamance River then I would definitely see one.
I called a local Senegalese guy named Louis Diatta (+223 773164675). He is the proprietor of a small eco-lodge called Le Lamantin (French for Manatee). The lodge is situated on the banks of the Casamance River at Pointe Saint-Georges. It is adjacent to a Senegalese Military camp so the security is excellent.
How to Get There
He told me that the route to his place is along a very sandy track, or better yet, he could come to the village of Djiromayte and he would collect me with his boat. The boat trip takes about 45 mins and costs 20 000 CFA for a return trip. The boat can fit up to 10 people and the price remains the same no matter how many people are in there. There is no public transport to Pointe Saint-Georges.
Other options for getting there include walking or you can hire a bicycle from the village of Mlomp. You need to be fit to pull this off. You can rent a bike in Mlomp for 8000 CFA per day and Louis can assist you with this. You could also negotiate with a local to drop you there on a motorbike for about 5000 CFA. This is only for the brave at heart (read: foolish). The track there is very sandy in places!
Seeing the Manatees
What makes this place special is that 100 metres downriver from his lodge, there is a natural spring that releases freshwater up from the bottom of the salty Casamance river. The West African Manatee can survive in saltwater but they need a source of fresh water to drink so this is what enables them to inhabit the area around here.
The enterprising locals have built a viewing tower so when the tide is out, you can just sit on the deck at the top of the tower. Every 5 minutes or so, a Manatees backbone will breach the water and then it’s paddle shaped tail will appear and then quickly disappear as it reenters the water.
Is it an exciting experience? I wouldn’t say that. But it was definitely cool seeing one of these endangered herbivorous marine mammals in the wild after all these years in Africa. Louis said the best time of year to see a Manatee is from November through to January when they apparently appear at low tide on most days.
At other times of the year, you may only see them once or twice a month but he assures me that dolphins are present offshore all year round.
If you are looking for something to get your blood flowing, there is another viewing tower in the jungle just south of Le Lamantin. This one is not designed to view manatees. Have a look:
The guys at Le Lamantin can help you organize a trip to this viewing platform. As of our last visit in early 2022, the equipment, ladder and viewing platform were all in great shape. The cost is 5000 cfa per person and that includes the assistance of a local guide who will help get you strapped in and guide you to the top. As you can see above, the views are excellent.
Where to Stay
There are several basic rooms at Le Lamantin. They are simple, but they are very clean. He has some solar panels that provide lights and a place to charge a phone if need be. The Orange cell phone network has reception at the lodge, but it isn’t very stable. I could make calls but the internet worked sporadically.
The lodge doesn’t have running water yet, but my room had a flush toilet and all the plumbing for a shower. With continued support from tourists, his next step is to invest in a water tank and pump so he can plumb in all the fittings. At the moment they provide you with a 20 liter drum of fresh water for your ablutions.
Security isn’t an issue here and the rooms have huge open windows so you get a nice breeze to keep you cool. The beds are very comfortable and the mosquito nets are in perfect condition. For 12 500 CFA you get a room for the night and this price includes all meals.
Crevettes and Gambas (prawns and big prawns) were on the menu when I was there and both lunch and dinner were fantastic. Breakfast was the simple french style consisting of coffee/tea, bread and confiture. Louis mentioned he can cater to vegetarians with a days notice. If you would like to buy a live chicken or even a duck in the village, he will happily prepare that for you and all up this will cost about 5000 CFA.
Overall, it was an excellent experience. This is stripped back, low impact tourism at its best. When I was eating breakfast, I was sitting next to two local guys repairing their fishing net. All of the money spent goes straight back into the local community.
If you are the sort of person that needs air conditioning, internet and a hot shower, then this is most definitely not the experience for you. But if you like getting away from the tourist traps and you want to relax in a clean and safe rural environment (and have the chance to see a West African Manatee), then Louis and his manager Fabien are excellent hosts and they will do their level best to ensure your stay is both comfortable and memorable.
We sometimes visit Pointe Saint-Georges on our 8-day trips to Senegal, the Gambia and Casamance as well as our longer trips from Dakar to Bissau.
*As an aside, there is a nice little restaurant called Chez Clara just behind Le Lamentin. I didn’t eat there but she had ice cold beer on hand when I popped in.
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