The Obstacle Course that is West African Roads

by May 23, 2018On the Road

Most people who come on our trips are used to dealing with traffic jams and speed traps. They are less familiar with green monkeys darting across the road or meandering donkeys. West African roads are often unfenced, and whether it’s a dirt track or tarmac, there is no shortage of obstacles.

a green monkey in Senegal

There are probably too many of them to list here, but here are a few of the notable hazards we come across on our trips:

  • Cows – cows are slow moving, but once they start crossing that road, rarely do they stop. The good news is that you can typically see a cow getting ready to cross the road in advance.
  • Goats – goats on the other hand do not give you any warning. They will fly out of a thicket onto the road and wreak havoc. Let’s face it, goats sew chaos wherever they go.
  • Donkeys – donkeys are more predictable. You can often find them towing a cart with passengers and baggage. When they are on their own, though, they seem to enjoy just standing in the middle of the road. Don’t get the crazy idea that they will move out of the way for you. Donkeys won’t move for an eighteen wheeler. They are certainly not going to budge for a scooter. Prepare for evasive maneuvers!
  • Kids – whether they are walking home from school, headed to the football pitch or just going for a stroll, children really roll out the red carpet for us. With all the cheering and dancing, you’d think that we just came in first place at Le Mans. Just make sure to keep your eyes on the road if you want to start throwing down high fives!
  • Birds – you don’t need to worry so much about birds flying into you, although we have had a few close calls with some Abyssinian rollers and a vulture. However, you do need to worry about your eyes wandering when a particularly majestic bird is flying overhead. Stare at that yellow-billed kite for too long and you may end up driving into a ditch, or into the broadside of a donkey.
  • Animaux sauvages (wild animals) – every now and then we will see a sign that says “Soyez prudent. Animaux sauvages” (Be prudent. Wild animals) This could refer to monkeys, warthogs, and bushbucks, among others. We will likely see plenty of monkeys, but we need a bit of luck to see some of the other animals.
  • The road itself – speed bumps, deviations, potholes – West African roads have it all. And sometimes the road is not much of a road at all. Just wait until we get on the jungle sand track after crossing the border from the Gambia to the Casamance in a dugout canoe.

We take a lot of care in planning our trips to ensure the safety of all riders. We have a pre-departure briefing every morning before we set out, and our familiarity with the local roads allows us to point out any potential hazards that we may come across. We also don’t ride at night. At sunset, you can typically find us lounging somewhere with a nice view, most likely with a cold beverage in hand.

At the end of the day, the variable road conditions are what make our trips a true adventure. Provided you are prepared and alert, the above hazards are just one more entertaining aspect of the scenery.

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