Just a short drive from Ziguinchor, the capital of the Casamance, you will find a collection of villages that make up the Oussouye department. We regularly visit this area on our 8-day Senegal trips and on our longer trips to Guinea-Bissau.

This tiny commune, sandwiched between the border of Guinea-Bissau and the Casamance river, is one of the most unique in the entire region.

The scenery is typical of the Casamance. Rice fields breach lush forests; cows meander and green monkeys dart across the road; palm trees and fromagier trees form a natural skyline. But Oussouye’s allure runs deeper than its natural beauty.

Culturally, it is perhaps the most fascinating place in Senegal. There is a King, chosen by a multi-village council, who acts as a political leader as well as an intermediary between the Jola (or Diola) God Ata Emit and us earthly beings. While there are many Christians (and to a lesser extent Muslims) in Oussouye, nearly everyone acknowledges and participates in the Animist initiation ceremonies and rites of passage.

The social fabric and community organization is remarkable. You won’t see any kids begging with empty tins. You also won’t see anyone who is mentally or physically handicapped wandering the streets. Families care for their own, and when they can’t, they approach the King (only in the evening, as it is considered shameful to ask) and he intervenes.

The King is a legitimate political figure despite not having an official title. His benediction is sought by politicians running for national office. The current King, Sibulumbai Diedhiou, played a critical role in restoring peace to Oussouye and the larger region during the Casamance rebellion in the early 2000’s. These days, he is tasked with mediating local conflicts that rise above the family/neighborhood level, and he is also responsible for distributing the rice harvest.

As a visitor, you can request an audience with the King. We did this through Pierre, who runs a wonderful auberge on the road to Cap Skirring, just a few meters outside of “downtown” Oussouye (I’ve marked it on the map below). Pierre took us to the sacred forest, briefed us on protocol and then introduced us to the king.

After exchanging greetings, we were given the chance to ask the King questions on any subject. He answered everything we asked and then let us take a few photos. It was the opposite of a forced tourist charade. It was truly fascinating and one of the more memorable cultural experiences I’ve had in the region as a tourist.

Meeting the King of Oussouye is not something to be taken lightly. It is certainly not your typical tourist attraction. It may not be possible to organize a meeting with him while you are there, but if it is possible it must be done through the proper local channels (like Pierre) and the suggested protocol must be followed.

While we encourage people to meet the King – it was a unique experience for us, and the King himself was appreciative of the fact that we came to greet him – we do not want to see this experience abused and transformed into something exploitative.

The King of Oussouye in the Sacred Forest

We would highly recommend Pierre (he can be reached at +221775643233 by phone and whatsapp) for organizing cultural activities and lodging. His auberge is simple, but comfortable and well-appointed with thoughtful staff and a great little restaurant/bar on site.

In addition to Pierre, there is a highly professional outfitting company called Casamance VTT offering hiking, mountain-biking and kayaking excursions. We had a very enjoyable morning kayak trip in the mangroves near Oussouye with a knowledgeable guide and quality equipment.

Check out the Casamance VTT website for contact and booking information. We did a half-day trip, but you can organize full day and even multi-day treks to explore the greater area.

Another highlight of our stay in Oussouye included stumbling into a local party at a bar called Chez Papis. A local youth association had organized the event and we were welcomed into the festivities as if we were invited guests. Of course, this kind of hospitality is typical of Oussouye and the Casamance in general. One more reason to visit this spectacular region of Senegal.

UPDATE: We were just back in Oussouye for another visit and we have a few more recommendations to make. We highly recommend taking the full tour with Pierre that includes a visit to a cashew cooperative and a visit to some of the fetishes in the village along with the massive “telephone” drums that are used to communicate between villages.

I am sure this could be organized with Casamance VTT as well, but our experience with Pierre was superb. One thing to note — he does not speak English (or very little anyway). Casamance VTT does have at least one English-speaking guide so you could consider them if you and/or your group do not speak French.