There are a few ways to get between Dakar and Ziguinchor, the capital of Senegal’s southern territory, the Casamance. You can always go by road via the Gambia, but this involves a border crossing and can be a hassle if you need to get a Gambian visa. There are also daily flights between the two cities, and they are quite affordable (75,000 CFA one way). There is a third option, however, and it’s a unique travel experience in itself: the overnight ferry.

In 2002, the overnight ferry – at the time called the MV le Joola – sunk off the coast of the Gambia, resulting in nearly 2,000 deaths. It is considered to be the second worst non-military maritime disaster in the world. The boat was carrying as much as three times its capacity. Many of the passengers did not have tickets, and the passenger manifest gives no indication of the number of lives lost.

That tragedy prompted serious action on the part of the Senegalese government. The boat is now tightly managed. In fact, don’t expect to even walk into the port area without your passport and your ticket, let alone onto the boat itself. Boarding is highly controlled now, along with the amount of cargo allowed on the ship.

While there are three ferries in total, we highly recommend the Aline Sitoe Diatta, which has private cabins available, complete with beds and a bathroom. This particular ferry leaves Ziguinchor on Thursdays and Sundays at 13h00, and it leaves Dakar on Tuesdays and Fridays at 20h00.

How much does it cost?

A seat on the Aline Sitoe Diatta will cost you 15000 cfa (about $30, as a non-resident of Senegal). The seats are comfortable, but can’t compare to the beds that can be found in the cabins. For only 3000 cfa more, you can get yourself a bed in an eight person cabin. The prices go up from there, with the most expensive booking being 30900 cfa per person for a two person cabin. You can see all the rates on the ferry website.

What is it like on the boat?

The boat is equipped with a full service bar and restaurant. While the restaurant is only open during mealtimes, snacks can be ordered from the bar, which stays open for the whole trip. The bar offers soft drinks, beer, cocktails and even espresso.

While the boat is heading out to sea, don’t be surprised if you see dolphins surfing in the wake of the boat as you cruise the Casamance river. There is also plenty of birdlife and interesting views of the riverside villages and the island of Carabane.

While the ride is relatively smooth, it can get a bit rough as you head out into the Atlantic. Having a bed in a cabin with a window certainly helps counter any seasickness, but if you are particularly susceptible bring along some dramamine or other motion sickness drug.

Tickets for the boat need to be purchased in advance, particularly if you want to have a bed in a cabin. You can do so at the port itself or through certain travel agencies. We have also arranged the purchase of tickets through le Perroquet hotel in Ziguinchor on several occasions. A scan of your passport will be required in order to make the purchase.

Of course, if you take one of our trips to Senegal, there is a good chance that we will take the ferry together as part of the trip.

Have you been on the overnight ferry? We’d love to hear how it went in the comments below.