Few borders have more notoriety amongst overlanders in Africa than the crossing between Senegal and Mauritania. While the Rosso crossing shows up in more horror stories, the Diama crossing is not exactly adored by travelers either. But hey, borders must be crossed, immigration officials must be cajoled and hassle and inconvenience must be imbibed.

In this article we will share a few recommendations to make things go a bit more smoothly. Let’s start with a few realities first.

North to South is The Problem

Travelers heading from Senegal into Mauritania rarely report having significant issues at either Rosso or Diama. There is far less traffic going in this direction and thus a smaller crowd of fixers and coaxers waiting to ambush. Also, there is not a vehicle age limit going into Mauritania, and the immigration and customs officials do not have the same predatory mindset that you encounter when you are going south.

Anyway, you are probably reading this page because you are a north to south traveler so let’s move on to to the next point.

Public Transport vs. Private Vehicle

If you are in your own vehicle, whether it is a beat up motorbike or a sleek new landcruiser, you will have a target on your back. Travelers getting around in bush taxis and other forms of public transport may run into a bit of resistance (like the 10 euro exit stamp demand which we will discuss later) but they will draw far less attention overall.

Here is a video from a solo traveler that did the Rosso crossing (without a private vehicle):

Diama is Better than Rosso, BUt…

There are those that hire fixers at Rosso and claim it’s smooth sailing. Yes, sure, maybe. Everyone gets lucky now and then. There are also plenty of people that have a miserable experience at Diama.

What is indisputable is that Rosso is a bigger crossing with more traffic, more coaxers, and more money changing hands. Diama is not exactly a quiet crossing, but it it way more relaxed than Rosso.

So why would anyone go through Rosso? Here’s why:

Rosso is a straight shot on the N2 from Nouakchott. To get to Diama, you need to take a combination of sealed road and piste, and you will end up paying a park “fee” of at least 200 Mauritanian Ouguiya (about 5 euro) whether or not you actually see the park. That said, the Diama crossing puts you closer to Saint Louis if you are heading that way.

How to Make the Best of It

I was going to write, “how to have a very enjoyable border crossing,” but we both know that’s not happening.

But please do take a step back and realize you are going to be engaging in a perfectly safe and largely harmless activity that involves talking to people and spending some money. For better or for worse (for worse, clearly), a whole economy revolves around these border crossings and many people make a living from the daily exchange that happens here.

Relax.

Now that doesn’t mean throw yourself to the sharks and part with all your money.

Time it Right

Sunday is the quietest day for either crossing. If you can’t cross on a Sunday, try to get there earlier in the day. The official open and close times are 9H00 – 18H00. The hours may be extended around the major holidays, but trust me you don’t want to be crossing these borders then. Keep in mind, Rosso still has a ferry (the bridge is slated to be completed at the end of 2024). Diama has a dam that serves as the only land bridge between Mauritania and Senegal. This is considerably more convenient.

Know What You need to have and What you Need to Pay

Whether you are traveling in your own vehicle or with public transport, iOverlander is your best resource here. Download the app and read the latest reports from these border crossings. Other travelers detail their experience and talk about what they had to pay for. On the web, here is the iOverlander page for Rosso and here is the page for Diama.

There are things you will be asked to pay for that you can politely decline. For example, you do not need to pay 10 euro for your passport to be stamped anywhere. Exiting Mauritania. Entering Senegal. There is no cost for a passport stamp!

There are other things you need to pay for. For example, if you have your own vehicle it is obligatory that you purchase ECOWAS insurance once you arrive in Senegal. There is typically one place where you can do this – and historically it was also the only place to change money – so of course it seems like a racket. There is no way around it. Sorry.

Oh, before I forget, always have a few photocopies of your passport handy. You will need them.

Vehicle Age and Carnet de Passage

If you are traveling by public transport, move along, and be happy this doesn’t apply to you!

For most of West Africa, a carnet de passage is not necessary. But if you are crossing into Senegal with a vehicle that is more than 8-years-old, you need to have one. If you don’t, you can still get through, but it will cost you.

The most commonly cited figure is 250 euro, but plenty of people end up paying more. Often, a Senegalese official will provide an escort to Saint Louis as part of this price.

If you don’t have a carnet, but have a younger car, you will be pay for the much cheaper laissez-passer (passavant).

Keep your cool

I already said to relax, but this is worth repeating. Getting visibly frustrated and angry with any border official will not get you anywhere. It will actually just make things worse. These guys have seen it all. They are not going to be phased by your temper tantrum.

Stay calm, smile, crack a joke or two, talk about football. You will get through it. Ca va aller, as they say.

Been through either of these border crossings recently? Let us know in the comments.