Where the Desert Meets the Sea: A Week in Mauritania
Mauritania is a land of contrasts, and in eight days we are going to squeeze a lot in. This tour is off the bikes to let us explore on foot and by car places that bikes can’t reach. The highlight is trying to get on to the iron ore train in Zouarate and ride it all the way to the coast.
Along the way we’ll visit an oasis or two. We’ll wander the streets of the ancient Saharan trading towns of Ouadane and Chinguetti. We’ll spend a night with some nomads and their camels in the desert. We’ll swim in the Atlantic next to the towering dunes of the Banc d’Arguin National Park. We’ll bake bread under the Saharan sands, learn to dance, Mauritanian style, and watch sunsets from the tops of sand dunes.
Itinerary
Please see our philosophy on itineraries. This itinerary is flexible and not necessarily chronological. Changes can be made depending on local conditions, spontaneous discoveries that can happen on the road, and the considerations of the group. Instead of a day-by-day breakdown we will share some of the highlights of the trip and then explain what to expect in terms of weather, food, lodging etc.
Desert Oasis of Terjit
At the western edge of the Adrar Plateau lies a gorge of palm groves surrounding a stream that bubbles up from a desert spring. It is a magical spot where we typically enjoy open air camping and a mind blowing celestial show at night. And that’s after we are treated to one of Mauritania’s dramatic desert sunsets.
The Eye of Africa
An archaeological and geological wonder, the Richat Structure, also known as the Eye of Africa, is an eroded geological dome nearly 40 kilometers in diameter. The origin story of the structure is still unknown. Some theories of extraterrestrial impact have been thrown out, but coherent explanations for the site are lacking.
Chinguetti
We get to step into history when we visit this fascinating former Saharan trading town. Founded in the 13th century, Chinguetti was one of the transit points in the network linking Timbuktu and sub-Saharan Africa with northern Africa and beyond. The dry-stone, mud-brick architecture and the sandy streets give the impression that the old town of Chinguetti is very much still in another century. Highlights are the Friday Mosque, topped with five ostrich egg finials, and the manuscript libraries of the old quarter.
Banc d’Arguin National Park
Yet another World Heritage Site, but this time a nature reserve that happens to be a home for over one million migrant shorebirds from northern Europe, Siberia and Greenland. It is considered to be the largest colony for water birds in all of West Africa — quite a feat when you wrap your head around the proliferation of bird life in the region. We will get to explore the vast sand bars on scooter and on foot, admiring the birds while keeping our distance from treacherous pelicans.
The Iron Ore Train
The desert in Mauritania delivers a sense of peace to visitors that words simply cannot describe. During the golden hour, sitting atop a moving train, you have the chance to observe the shifting hues of the Saharan sands and sky. Distant rocky outcrops climb out of the desert and you can watch local herders and camels moving across this otherworldly landscape.
We feel that this is Mauritania at its best; untouched and unspoiled, stuck in an era that few know still exists and fewer still take the leap to experience. Riding the iconic iron ore train across northern Mauritania is an ever-growing legend in the world of adventure travel.
One of the longest trains in the world, the Iron Ore train transports ore from the Sahara to Nouadhibou on the coast. The train is dusty and uncomfortable and one of the wildest experiences you will ever have. It’s possible that we end up in empty cars or on top of the ore itself. We will likely encounter other stowaways for which this free form of transport is a lifeline. No matter what happens it will be unforgettable and a story you will tell for the rest of your life.
Oases, Camel Treks and Landscapes from Another Planet
For some of this trip we will use our own two feet, walking with camels into the desert. We have excellent local guides that help make this an unforgettable experience. We will visit oases and family campements as we get to see a part of Mauritania that few people visit.
What to Expect
From November through February the weather is fairly consistent: lots of sun, a dry heat with daytime highs around 33°C (92 °F), and evenings and mornings that can be quite cool. From March onwards it is hot. The temperature increase is not excellent for our comfort, BUT it means that there are far fewer tourists at this time. It’s quite special sharing a vast expanse of the Sahara with only a handful of locals.
Please have a look at the What to Pack page for tips on clothing and sun protection. In our pre-trip email exchanges we will go into more detail on the gear you need to stay as comfortable as possible depending on what time of year you. are doing the trip.
We will be spending time in French and Arabic speaking countries. Don’t speak French or Arabic? Don’t worry. Many people speak at least a bit of English, and even if you do get stuck, a trip leader will always be close by. You will also have a chance to learn some local languages, such as Wolof in Senegal and Ḥassāniyyah Arabic, which is the local brand of Arabic widely spoken in Mauritania.
There will be bush camps on this trip. We will provide the necessary camping equipment except for a sleeping bag, which you need to bring yourself.
Wherever possible, we will stay at hotels and guesthouse that introduce us to the local community. We will always choose a family run place over a larger hotel.
We want to stress that facilities will be limited. This is not luxury travel. If you often find yourself complaining about the thread count of the sheets and the size of the pillows when you are traveling, this is not the trip for you.
Western style food will often be available, but we will encourage you to try as much of the local cuisine as possible. There will be a wide variety of local dishes on this trip as we straddle the line between West Africa and North Africa. Everywhere we eat, the food is prepared to order and with local ingredients. We will also be preparing some of our own food when we bush camp.
Breakfast will be provided daily, along with many of the lunches and dinners. When there are restaurant choices in cities and towns, the food will be at your expense. Vegetarian and vegan options are limited, but we can make a plan provided you notify us in advance of the trip.
Nouakchott’s airport is served by multiple international carriers. You need to arrive in the city by the Saturday before the trip. While the trip does not begin until the following day, we will have a pre-departure orientation that evening. For your departing flight, plan to book it no earlier than the Saturday evening a week later.
As far as the trip itself: if you are expecting a by-the-minute schedule that will be respected to the letter, this is not the trip for you. West Africa is a great place for honing your patience and learning how to improvise. It’s important to keep an open mind and be ready for anything. If you have the right attitude, you will learn to love the different challenges that may arise. For more on this, please read about us and our philosophy on itineraries.
Available Dates
Where the Desert Meets the Sea: 8 Days in Mauritania
Where the Desert Meets the Sea: 8 Days in Mauritania
The trip price includes all accommodation, breakfasts, transportation and a certain number of lunches and dinners. It does not include airfare, any visas needed, optional activities, drinks or food outside of the group meals.
Cost and Booking Information
The trip cost is €1850. To secure your spot on the trip, we take a non-refundable deposit of €250. If you are unable to make it on the trip, you can use this deposit towards a future trip at a later date.
We are traveling in 4×4 vehicles with a maximum of three passengers. If you have a group of 4, and the 4th person is willing to ride in the middle, that person has a free trip. So go get a group of 4 together!
As stated above, the trip cost includes all lodging, transport, breakfasts and many of the lunches and dinners. It does not include airfare, visas, optional activities, drinks, and food outside of the group meals provided.